Monday, November 10, 2014

The Upper Mustang Trek - II


You can read the first part here

Homo Sapiens is certainly a most peculiar species. I am certain that most of the denizens would, if told to take time to smell the roses, say impatiently,"Well! Bring the roses to me soon so that I can smell them. I have a zillion things to do." So, it is no wonder that when the group was being split into the 'fast group' and the 'slow group', the first time trekkers were vociferously discontented with being put in the slow group. It did not help that Ramesh, who was the sort to take pride in saying, "You know what? I finished partying in one hour while those other guys needed 5 hours to finish partying", was the chap who was talking of the groups and the way he said 'slow group' made you feel like snails wending your slimy way up the mountains. Trust some people to make a holiday seem more like hard work than your job.

Chandru and I - devoted rose-smellers that we are - automatically places ourselves in the 'slow group'. After all, the novice trekkers needed the support of some 'experienced' ones. Kulendra of 'Adventure Connexion' - the guys who were organizing the trek for us - had joined in as a co-trekker and he, too, was with the 'slow group'. Geeta, Karthikeyan, Vinita and Sampath rounded off the group. The three Swiss Germans - Reto, Regina and Robert; Ramesh; Shivashankar and Sanjeev were the guys, who had decided that their vacation had to be spent playing hard. That, then, was the order of the first day.

Within no time at all, we were faced with an uphill trudge. The trek is in the rain shadow region and you raise a puff of dust with every step you take. The problem for me in such terrain is that the nostrils get half clogged with dust and I perforce have to breathe through the mouth. Since my throat dries up in no time when I do that I inevitably keep coughing in such terrain, which is of course a great help when you are trying to get as much of the thin air into your lungs as possible to help lug your not inconsiderable weight up a slope. But, of course, I was keeping to the tail of the group ONLY because I had to be handy to help the novice trekkers.

The novice trekkers, though, were under no compulsion to keep up with me. Karthikeyan, Geeta and Vinita went rushing on ahead to prove that they did not belong with the slow-coaches. Sampath, though, was taking it slow and easy as befits a man out to enjoy himself. Chandru kept pace with him and I brought up the rear. We hit Chusang for lunch in roughly that order.

The thing about trekking in this region is that you have tea-houses dotting the landscape and, thus, you have your meals at dining tables - with beer, if that is how you prefer it, and stay the night in rooms with beds and quilts laid on. Of course, all tea-houses offer free Wi-Fi and paid-for hot water much on the lines of how I could offer free caviar and champagne at my home. If you can find it, you can have it for free! (Well - since the hot water comes out of solar-heating of freezing cold water, they probably provide a lukewarm bath to ONE trekker and THAT, invariably, used to be Ramesh, who rushed ahead of the group merely for that privilege.)

We hit Chusang to see the crowd - barring Ramesh and Shivashankar who had decided to push on to the day's destination 'Chele' and have lunch there - sitting and waiting for their lunch to be served. Meal orders in these tea-houses have to be placed about an hour before you intend to have the meal. Thankfully, beer does not take that long!

Geeta was lying down with eyes closed. When we checked with her, she complained of headache and nausea. Acute Mountain Sickness can be a killer and these were also symptoms of AMS, so, this was worrying. I gave her half a bottle of electral and asked her to force herself to eat a meal. She drank up the electral, made some indeterminate noises and went back to communing with her misery.

When Chandru says, "When you feel like this, yeah, you HAVE to eat something, yeah, even though you won't feel like it, yeah...", the recipient of the message feels like she is listening to Krishna discoursing on the Bhagavad Gita and is impelled to follow the advice. When I say things like that, I probably sound more like a mosquito buzzing irritatingly in your ears. So, I turned to Chandru and asked him to tell her to eat when the food came. He did AND, of course, she ate.

After the meal we proceeded onwards with Geeta, Sampath, Chandru and I bringing up the rear. As it so irritatingly often happens on these treks, the last leg of the trek for the day was a steep ascent. Ramesh was waiting at the top and when Geeta reached him, she told him that she was feeling poorly since her headache and nausea had still not gone. Ramesh told her that it could not be AMS since she did the ascent quite well and, indeed, the guys behind her (Chandru and I, obviously) were also struggling and using her as an excuse for the slow pace.

Well, now you know! All of you have met such people. Just as the other end of your alimentary canal had emitted one of its infrequent loud noises and you, turning a delicate magenta, look around, hopefully expecting that no-one has noticed it even as the echoes are dying down, there is always someone cupping his ears and declaiming, "Speak on lovely lips that never spoke a lie"! If you know some such person, who specializes in voicing inconvenient truths, you KNOW Ramesh!

Drowning the resentment in beer, we trudged off to sleep to wake up to whatever horrors Ramesh had planned for the next day!

Photo Credits : Co-trekkers! Not a single one by me!

Sunday, November 9, 2014

The Upper Mustang Trek - I


The problem with being called a veteran at anything is that it automatically creates the pressure to live up to the tag. I mean, just imagine someone calling you a veteran cook with eight years of experience in the kitchen. Even as you are scraping the half-burnt pieces of carbon on to your plate and hypnotizing yourself into thinking of it as dinner, you simultaneously swell up in pride and set your mind scurrying to find explanations for why exactly burning food is a sign of extraordinary culinary expertise.


This, in short, is the position I found myself in on this Upper Mustang Trek. With five first-time trekkers in the group of twelve and my own self clubbed under the veterans, I found myself in the invidious position of having to live up to the name. Rather put the kibosh on any thoughts of squatting down on the trail midway, and kicking and screaming for someone to tote me up those steep trails. Add  to the mix the fact that Ramesh had squeezed a 14-18 day trek into 11 days AND that he thought it would be a good work-out for HIM, you can well imagine that any fond thoughts  - that any given day’s trekking would end well before the time when wailing would seem the only way to go forward - died stillborn. (For those who have not read “Trekking in Kothagiri”, Ramesh is the chap I suspect of being an android, considering the fact that his speed of travel seems to take no cognizance of minor considerations like a 30 degree slope heading up to infinity.) It was, therefore, with much trepidation that I landed in Kathmandu on 19th October.

Such is human nature that the problems of the trek itself paled to insignificance compared to the immediate problem that faced me. Two days of road journey preceded the start of the trek and, as has been cited in these annals before - notably in 'Sick of Motion', the contents of my stomach reacted with motion of their own - upwards and outwards - whenever I hit the roads. What with food refusing to taste as good coming out as when going in, I was understandably averse to the idea. Having been remiss in not perfecting teleportation, however, I had little choice in the matter but to grin and (literally) swallow my bile for the ensuing two days.

The next day, the trip started with a visit to the auspicious Pasupathinath temple. The day's journey was to Pokhara, where we would halt for the night. The journey would have been almost uneventful but for the fact that Sampath gave the first intimation of his uncanny specialty. He had bought a camera at the Delhi Airport, and had left it behind in the vehicle that ferried us from the Airport to our hotel at Kathmandu, along with a bottle of duty-free rum. What was special about the incident was that both were safely recovered and delivered back while we were en route Pokhara. Just to prove that this was no fluke, he repeated the feat with other goods all through the trip - misplacing and, invariably, retrieving his goods!

The subsequent day, we traveled from Pokhara to Kagbeni, from where we were to start our trek. If ever there was a journey where we traveled in every possible dimension all at once, it was this one. So smooth was the road that we were traveling from one side to another, jouncing up and down as well as inching ahead - all at once. It is a tribute to the inherent good nature of my fellow-trekkers that I was not bounced off the seat adjacent to the driver since that would have been the most comfortable seat of all - not that THAT was saying much. After a hair-rising crossing of the Kali-Gandhaki river - not on a bridge or trail but by driving across the river-bed - we reached Kagbeni and, after a gingerly assessment, came to the surprising conclusion that our bodies were still in one piece. (One piece each, I mean, NOT welded to each other.)

The next day would see us start the real business - of trekking up the Mustang trail.

Photo Credits : Co-trekkers! Not a single one by me!

Thursday, October 9, 2014

Heighho to the Himalayas, again

It is that time of the year again. A time when all my long-suffering readers eagerly look forward to, when I vanish into the mountains and give them respite from my relentless flow of words. AND, may I say, a small ray of hope which probably fills their days with roseate thoughts - that I may be seduced into trying to 'find' myself in some remote cave there, leaving them in permanent peace. THAT hope, though, is totally in vain, since I have long concluded that there is nothing really to find in myself - what is the point in scrutinizing a vacuum, square inch by square inch?

My hosts, from the night of October 9 to the morning of October 11, shall be the esteemed Indian Railways, whose scrumptious meals I shall eagerly look forward to, as the only means to break the monotony of the day. The problem with A/c travel is that you hardly ever get to really take in the landscape that you whiz past. BUT, alas, the problem with non-A/c travel for me is that I can hardly even take in the compartment I am in, so focused I am on the rivulets of sweat that wend their way along various parts of my body.

From the October 11th to October 18th, my long-suffering friend from my working days shall take over. I do not take those people seriously, who claim that murmurs were heard in the vicinity of his house on the lines of "I thought we were safe because June had passed and he did not come. How was I to know that this year he would choose to come in October? Otherwise, I would have planned to visit the Sahara for a pleasant holiday." No! He is a sweet guy and I am sure that he is bending every nerve and sinew to ensure that Delhi, even if it does not approach Bangalore, is more a city to live in, and not merely a giant oven to bake people for some humongous cannibalistic orgy.

From the 19th to the 2nd November, you guys will sorely miss the sight of me trying to make out like a veteran trekker while actually moving more like an overburdened snail - except, of course, that the snail bulges only in the back. That huffing and puffing arthritic zombie muddling along on the trails of the Upper Mustang trek in Nepal would truly be a sight for sore eyes and an inspiration to all novice trekkers - on the lines of "If HE thinks he can trek, then WE can do it easily" - but THAT, alas, does not lie in your fortune to witness.

The Indian Railways shall take over again from the night of the 4th to the morning of the 6th. AND, once I land back here, I shall have the pleasure of chasing up computer technicians and plumbers to get my laptop, a couple of valves and my water purifier working again. They decided to take a vacation along with me AND ensured that my return, at least, shall remind me of my working days - by ensuring that I come back with regret AND a vast displeasure to getting back to the routine.

BUT, meanwhile, it is heighho to the Himalayas!

Monday, October 6, 2014

Empowerment

"You are simply wasting your time. You should be working for the empowerment of those less fortunate than you."

"Ah! So, you really can give to others what you do not have yourself?"

"What do you mean? That I try to give wisdom when I do not have it myself?"

That's always the problem. You mean one thing, the other guy takes it in some other sense. At least this chap openly said it and gave me the opportunity to clarify.

"No! No! I mean that you think I can give power to others when I have none myself."

If I were any more powerless, I would be the dead battery that you throw away, cursing it for giving up just when you are in the middle of something important. To think of it, I would not mind someone empowering me.

"I think I can do with some empowering myself. Know of someone who can empower me in my interactions with the world - especially government?"

"Nonsense! The moment I talk of empowerment, all you can think of is how to get something for yourself. If you feel so powerless, why don't you think of others like you whom YOU can try to empower?"

"WHAT? And lose his company in feeling powerless? I'd rather be powerless together with him than powerless all by myself."

"The typical crab mentality. You will not climb up yourself and you will do your best to pull down someone else who is climbing."

"Well! Why can't I be the person climbing and you tell the others to not pull me down?'

"AND? Once you climb up, will you help the others get empowered too?"

"Hmm..I think that it would be a disservice. After all to win against difficulty builds character. So, if I help them, they will not be able to build their character, since they will have it easy. How can I be the reason for their losing that opportunity?"

"Ah! You really ARE a facile SOB. So, you will apply the same standards to your children?"

"Come on! What is the point in my getting ahead in life if my own family derives no benefit from it? Why would I suffer and slave at getting ahead in life, if they are also to start from scratch?"

"You really are a selfish brute. You want someone to empower you but, once you do have some power, you will keep it all for your family."

"Huh? THEY are expiating the sins of their ancestors. What have I got to expiate?"

There was a loud popping noise as my friend swelled up and burst.

Meanwhile...will someone find me and empower me? Pretty please....